I grew up in Cleveland, where the phrase rock 'n' roll was first coined. And I even went to the epic celebratory party when Cleveland was awarded the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. So yes, I've got a bit of affinity for it starting all the way back in the 1950s, which is why I decided it was finally time to give Sherman's Fairlane Diner a shot.
Fairlane is all about paying homage to Route 66 and the concept of a 1950s diner, albeit with the layout of a fast-food restaurant and, naturally, video gaming. The décor matches the themes and even slightly reminded me of the central gathering point in my childhood sitcom, "Happy Days." We were told that until an expansion a few years ago, the seating consisted of those iconic red and white chairs, booths and period tables. Currently, the tables and chairs are really the only things that don't scream 1950s.
Even the exterior is meant to look the part; on pulling in I almost expected a carhop on roller skates to greet us and take our order. But I guess with Fairlane's busy drive-thru, carhops just weren't in the cards. During more temperate weather, there is also outdoor seating. All and all, it's nicely done and evokes a whole host of nostalgic emotions.
Patrons order at the counter and there are a bunch of monitors that display Fairlane's bill of fare. Once you order and pay, you are given a number and when the food is ready it is bussed out. The day we visited it felt like it came out super-fast, even with Fairlane about 75% full. Most of our fellow diners appeared to be retirees and the construction crowd, who obviously know where to go for good food.
Fairlane's menu consists mostly of sandwiches, although there are some more substantial dinner options. For those looking for something healthier, there are about a half-dozen salads, including a gyro salad (lettuce, cucumber, croutons, feta and black olives) and a salmon salad (salmon, lettuce, tomato, cucumber, croutons, cranberries and pecans.) Given that under current winter hours Fairlane does not open until 11 a.m., there are no breakfast options.
Burgers, whether a single or triple, all come plain but can be customized to include lettuce, tomato, onion, pickles, ketchup, mustard and cheese. Veggie, pork and turkey burgers are also available. Other sandwiches included a turkey or ham club, chicken salad and grilled cheese. There are also a variety of hot dogs if one is inclined to go that way, including a chili dog and a Chicago dog.
Order your sandwich as a combo and it comes with fries or tots and a 20-ounce drink (fill yours at the soda fountain). Onion rings can be substituted for an extra $2.89 while a slice of cheese will run you 50 cents. Lunch prices for a combo ran from $10.50 (grilled cheese or a regular hot dog) to $13.75 (double pork burger).
Beyond sandwiches, Fairlane offers your typical appetizers (think fried mushrooms, cheese curds and stuffed jalapeño nachos). For the dinner crowd there are some more substantial sandwiches (Reuben, Philly cheesesteak, etc.) along with traditional dishes like a 12-ounce pork chop, salmon and popcorn shrimp. All dinners come with fries or tots and a drink along with a choice of cheese. Combo prices started at $11.99 (popcorn shrimp) up to $12.99 (the majority of dishes).
I decided to go with a basket – specifically, the Black and Blue basket, which consisted of a six-ounce patty, blue cheese and Cajun seasoning. All baskets come with fries or tots and a drink. The patty was, predictably, a smashburger. It appeared to be seasoned with just salt and pepper (we admired the restraint) and had a rich, beefy taste with crunchy and deeply caramelized edges. The blue cheese added even more richness (in a good way) such that I had to go back to the counter to ask for pickles and onions as I needed a shot of acidity to counterbalance all that richness. I went with waffle fries, which were nothing spectacular but were well cooked and well-seasoned. I would order it again.
My other guest went with the double cheeseburger with all the fixings, other than ketchup and mustard, and tots. She appreciated it as much as I did the basket. However, she commented that it could have been elevated had the bun been toasted or grilled on the griddle, adding another texture component and further slowing the disintegration of the soft bun. We have no doubt that Fairlane would accommodate this request on a future visit.
For those who still have room, Fairlane has a substantial dessert menu, including homemade cheesecakes, floats, shakes and sundaes. I jumped the gun and decided to wash down my basket with a 16-ounce milkshake. It was one of the better milkshakes I've had in recent memory. It was a nearly perfect harmony of creamy, chocolaty and slightly sweet, with every sip leaving you craving more.
Fairlane Diner isn't a fancy restaurant, nor is its food. But it's fresh, made with quality ingredients, at reasonable prices and with generous portions.
