I've never been a big fan of hot dogs. A few times a year when I'm at the ballpark or some other big venue I'll opt for one, especially if brown mustard is available. Or late at night after a few beers, a Chicago dog might be called for – but not your general boiled or steamed hot dog that's served in a bun or a corn dog. (No doubt, I'll get hate mail for that one.) That's the reason I have never stopped by Cozy Dog Drive In. But when a few friends who were pining for a chili cheese dog on a blustery winter day invited me, I decided that it was finally time to visit the iconic restaurant.
Cozy Dog Drive In pays homage to Route 66 and is laden with related memorabilia, probably more than I've ever seen at an establishment before. The décor is based on a 1950s roadside diner. There's even a library as well as a display showing the evolution of the devices used to create and serve the corn dog (more on that later).
Cozy Dog Drive In started shortly after World War II and is still family-owned today. Undoubtedly, its biggest claim to fame is that it invented the corn dog. The owner took inspiration from a visit to a roadside café in Muskogee, Oklahoma, where a distant precursor of the dish was served (albeit without the stick), and which he improved on over the next year or so until perfecting what ultimately came to be called the Cozy Dog.
We arrived around 11:30 a.m. and claimed a table. By the time we left there was a line of about a half-dozen people up at the counter. We were all pleasantly surprised at how quickly our food came out and thought that the prices were reasonable.
Service is do-it-yourself at the counter, with the menu prominently displayed in an old-style frame. Breakfast is available until 11 a.m. (it opens at 8 a.m.) and includes the usual diner offerings. For hot dog fans, there are five selections: Cozy Dog, hot dog, chili dog, chili cheese dog and cheese dog. A variety of burgers and the customary other handhelds round out the menu. Everything is à la carte, so sides are ordered separately and include fries, onion rings, mushrooms, slaw, cheese on a stick and tots. There are two daily specials, both $8.75: two Cozy Dogs and a medium fry, or a double burger and a medium fry. After ordering, Cozy Dog's patrons proceed to the drink station where it's again do-it-yourself.
We all decided to start with the chili. Everyone liked the grease factor, the finely ground beef and the fact that it wasn't overloaded with beans. But we all thought it could have used some more chili-related seasonings. However, we believe that Cozy Dog's chili is designed that way so as not to overpower its chili dog.
I chose the double cheeseburger and an order of the onion rings. The burger, which was your typical diner-style, featured a beautifully caramelized, crispy-edged patty topped with melted, oozing cheese. Tomato and onion added some crunch and acidity. The onion rings had the requisite crunch on the outside while the onion was not soggy, as so often happens.
My other guests each went with the chili cheese dog. They informed me that the ideal chili cheese dog requires a combination of savory, spicy and cheesy flavors that are all wrapped up in a soft hot dog bun. Opinions differed as to whether chopped onion deserved to be added.
One thought that chopped, raw onions add crunch, bite and help balance out the richness of the chili. Although he wasn't sure, he thought perhaps that the onions had been soaked in water first to help mellow out the strong and pungent flavor resulting from sulfur residue that's released when an onion is sliced or diced. The other found it to be a major faux pas and a departure from tradition. Both agreed, however, that mustard should never be included but that a dash of hot sauce or sliced jalapeños can be added if so desired.
Both found that Cozy Dog Drive In delivered a messy, indulgent treat that was comforting, satisfying and downright delicious. More specifically, they appreciated that the chili wasn't too runny such that it soaked into the bun and that there was a nice balance among the dog, the chili and the melty cheese.
One guest opted for the tater tots and the other for fries. All three of us sampled these sides. The tater tots were the winner with the crispy outside and fluffy inside. The fries, while well-seasoned, weren't as crispy as any of us would have liked.
Cozy Dog Drive In is a slice of Americana that's family-owned and deserves to be visited at least once in a lifetime, if not on a more regular basis.
