Soy Oaxaca, which translates from Spanish to, “I am Oaxaca,” is also the name of downtown Springfield’s latest restaurant. Soy Oaxaca itself is both a state and a capital city in southern Mexico. Some call it the culinary capital of Mexico (especially with respect to mole) but all agree that its United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization-listed ruins and colonial architecture provide a wonderful backdrop to any meal. And that’s what Soy Oaxaca wants to do — to bring a little flavor of Oaxaca to Springfield.
The space was occupied for years by Augie’s Front Burner and was recently the home of a short-lived Mexican restaurant. Since Augie’s closed, I’ve only been in the space once and that was to be totally ignored by wait staff of Soy Oaxaca’s immediate predecessor. Good news — that vibe, and more importantly the service, have both been altered for the better.
First, the space has undergone a complete redo. There’s new flooring, a bar and decorations. To my eye, the new owners treated the space like a blank canvas. The contemporary hues skew toward grays, browns and whites and there’s nothing that screams “Mexican restaurant.” Still, the space was welcoming, clean (literally and figuratively) and immaculate.
Second, the service was great. We were pleasantly greeted and shown to our table. Staff were quick to sense when service was required but were in no hurry to hustle us out. They also had some good insight into the menu, which was appreciated.
My guest and I arrived just around 11:30 a.m. We were among the first diners, but a steady stream of visitors kept the space just under half full. Still, given all of the bad news for downtown restaurants these days, we’re hopeful that Soy Oaxaca develops a steady and regular crowd, something that some more publicity might help. At least Oaxaca makes its menu readily available online.
Soy Oaxaca’s menu is quite expansive and includes just about everything you would expect. There’s a special lunch section as well as a section devoted to a handful of Oaxacan specialties like empanadas and banana leaf-wrapped tamales. Dishes that caught our eye included the birria (slow-braised beef ribs in a rich braising sauce for dipping, served as tacos and as a dinner item itself), the caldo de res (Mexican beef soup with veggies) and the molcajete (sizzling volcanic stone bowl with steak, chicken, shrimp and chorizo).
We started with the guacamole and some salsa and chips. The guac was nothing special (seemingly pre-made), yet satisfying. I felt it would have benefited from the addition of some more peppers. The chips were not house-made, but the salsa had a nice consistency (not too runny) and tasted freshly made. We all thought it was one of the better salsas in Springfield. It was also easy on the spice.
For entrees my guest and I both opted for the dinner menu. I went with the carnitas ($17), and he decided on the Baja fish tacos ($18).
Each dish came with generous helpings of refried beans and Spanish rice. Neither of the offerings stood out, and the rice was a bit dry. But most people don’t come to a Mexican restaurant for the sides. We counted ourselves among that crowd, and we were both pleased with our main items.
For me, it was the carnitas, which is how I tend to judge Mexican restaurants. Carnitas, literally interpreted, means “little meats.” It’s made by simmering pork bits in liquid (traditionally lard), which can take four or more hours. The result is tender and juicy meat that’s packed with flavor and eaten with tortillas and the usual fajita accompaniments.
Soy Oaxaca’s version (which also came with a dollop of guac to help brighten up the dish) had plenty of flavor but fell a little short in terms of tenderness and juiciness. The best version of carnitas has crispy and caramelized edges with the main portions being deeply browned but with a juicy interior. Mine weren’t dry but they were not quite juicy. Should Soy Oaxaca fix that slight glitch, it will have a winner on its hands.
My guest, who went with the fish tacos, was also pleased. Baja fish tacos are an iconic Mexican coastal dish featuring beer-battered, deep-fried white fish served on warm corn tortillas (in our case, flour). They are defined by a contrast of textures and flavors: crispy fish, crunchy cabbage, creamy white sauce and zesty lime, creating a light yet savory, fresh and slightly spicy flavor profile. Soy Oaxaca’s versions checked all of these boxes. The fish was reported as crispy on the outside and succulent on the inside, all of which was heightened by the crunch of the cabbage and the acidity of the lime and white sauce. I didn’t get to sample any, but it looked great.
Soy Oaxaca is a welcome addition to downtown. Service was great, and it’s one of the few places in the immediate area that still has traditional table ordering and seating. Throw in some food that’s in line with its peers, and we hope it results in a winning combination that gives downtown a desperately needed win. So, tell your friends and make sure to give it a try.