CD's BBQ is a family-owned restaurant near the intersection of North Grand Avenue and Eighth Street. The "C" is for Cecil Turner, who's been barbecuing virtually his whole life, while the "D" is for his wife, Doris Turner, who helps prepare the food when she isn't at the Statehouse performing her duties as a senator. Conveniently, the restaurant is next door to Sen. Turner's constituent office.
The menu is pretty simple – ribs, rib tips and pork. On Saturday, sausage and sometimes chicken legs are available. The only sides are coleslaw and baked beans. Rumor has it that the senator makes the baked beans. Beer and a variety of soft drinks are available, and of course there are the ubiquitous video gaming terminals. Who knows, you might get lucky and win enough to pay for your meal.
My guest and I arrived on a blustery cold winter day and were pleasantly greeted. Having perused the menu before our visit, we quickly opted to go with the half slab of ribs with two sides ($20) and an order of rib tips ($10). We were tempted to try the pork sandwich but that would have meant an obscene amount of food. Maybe next time.
It didn't take long for our food to come out. The rib tips were a huge hit. They were tender, but not falling off the bone, with a nice balance between being firm enough to hold while also being easy to chew. They had a deep, smoky flavor that complemented the meat but did not overpower it. We both appreciated that they had a nice bark on the surface that added some texture and richness to each bite. Finally, and most importantly, they were juicy but not greasy. Clearly the fat had rendered down to create a succulent bite.
This same commentary applied to the ribs as well. Just like the tips, CD's ribs were all about balance, from tenderness to flavor to just the right amounts of smokiness, seasoning and sauce. All of these elements came together and gave us a flavorful, juicy, half rack of ribs with a nice bark and tender, juicy meat that will keep us coming back for more.
There has always been some controversy over whether ribs should come with sauce or not. Traditionalists typically prefer no sauce so that they can appreciate the seasoning and smoky flavor. I, however, think that a good sauce can be a great addition and that having the ribs brushed with a light layer of tangy or sweet barbecue sauce just before serving adds an extra burst of flavor. And that's exactly what CD's sauce delivered – a pleasant balance of sweetness and tanginess coupled with a backdrop of spicy heat. We used the white bread to soak up what little sauce was left over so as to not let it go to waste.
Regarding the sides, with all due deference to those who find them an essential part of barbecue, I'm just not a fan of baked beans. They've always been too sweet for me. But my guest was very pleased with the dish. He reported that they were tender without being mushy and that the small nuggets of pork infused the beans with a nice savory note. He also liked the balanced flavor combination of sweetness, savory elements and smoke.
Despite my overall disdain for mayonnaise, coleslaw is one of the few dishes that contains mayo that I'll eat. CD's version was spot-on. Crisp vegetables are crucial for good slaw, a point that CD's clearly understood. We liked that the cabbage wasn't shredded too finely and that there was just the right amount of carrots. It also had a nice, creamy dressing that coated the vegetables but didn't drown them. The seasoning appeared to be just salt and pepper, and overall, it had a nice balance of sweetness and tang from some sort of acid that gave the dish a brightness that complemented the richness of the meat.
Service was excellent, portions were generous (especially with the tips), and the prices were fair for what we were served. Overall, that's a winning recipe. Good job, CD's.